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US POWERBOATING Anchoring
The rode is the line and/or chain which goes to an
anchor. It is often composed of both chain and rope. The
chain is attached to the anchor and it helps the anchor to lie flat on the
bottom. This has three benefits:
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The chain lies flat on the bottom and
increases the horizontal pull on the anchor. This will increase the
anchor's purchase.
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The chain will not chafe as it lies on and is
pulled across the bottom.
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The chain acts as a shock absorber as the
boat intermittently pulls on the rode, lifting the chain off the bottom.
One must be sure that the anchor has a good purchase
on the water's bottom or it will drag and the boat will drift. You
can check the purchase by observing the tension on the rode and any change
in position of the boat as the boat is placed in reverse.
While at anchor, intermittently check the tension on the rode as the
boat's bow raises and lowers with the waves. Also take several
compass fixes and/or GPS positions to aid in determining if the boat is
drifting and pulling the anchor. A common predisposing factor of a dragging anchor is not letting out enough rode.
As a general guide, let out at least seven times the rode as the depth of
the water plus the boat's freeboard (distance from the water surface to
the deck) This ratio is called the anchoring scope. The scope may be decreased
to 5:1 if an all chain rode is used or with someone on board in sheltered
anchoring areas with a good holding bottom. Scope may have to be increased in high
wind or wave conditions. Be sure to check the depth of the water where you anchor in relationship
to the tide or you may inadvertently become grounded. If a single
anchor is placed, your boat will swing around the anchor as the direction
of wind changes. This is especially true on the coast where one
encounters land and sea breezes. The water must be deep enough for
anchorage along the entire arch of this swing. If less swing is
desired, set two anchors at 180 degrees from each other.
You must also check the tide tables to
make sure the water will be deep enough at low tide along the entire
radius of swing, and that your scope will be sufficient at high tide.
For example, if you anchor with a 7:1 scope at low tide in six feet of
water and a six foot tide comes in, your scope will be reduced to 3.5:1.
NAOO Tides Online (You can view tide
tables and graphs from various locations around the USA):
http://tidesonline.nos.noaa.gov/monitor.html
Go To: Swinging Radius at Anchor Calculator
In
a crowded anchorage, always
anchor in a similar fashion as the boat next to you or the two boats may
drift into each other. For example: If your boat is fixed in
place with two anchors and the other boat has a single anchor, the other
boat may be blown into your boat. In addition, look at the other
boats in the anchorage and take note of the type and the angle of their
rodes to the water. This will help you judge the amount of rode let
out and give an idea of the swing radius of the other boats. Remember
if a boat has an all chain rode, it may have a 5:1 or less scope and have
a smaller swinging radius than a boat with a combination chain and rope
line. Boats that are anchored next to each other that have a
different swing radius are also at greater risk to drift into each other
if the current or wind changes.
( Click on Picture to Enlarge !! )
Sailor's Tip: Place
fathom or foot markers on the rode to help judge how much line has been
let out.
A good anchorage has the following
characteristics:
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Protected from wind and waves & swells.
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Enough depth at low tide along the full swing
of the rode.
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Enough space along the full swing of the
rode.
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Good bottom which will hold an anchor.
Types of Anchors:
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Danforth -
Holds well in soft surfaces, but may not hold on
hard surfaces.
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Bruce -
For both hard and soft surfaces
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Plow -
A burying anchor for hard
surfaces. Notice the ring on the anchor's crown for attachment of a
retrieval line (trip line) which is floated up to a buoy.
Tip: One may
place a second line (trip line) to the head of the anchor. There is usually a
metal loop to allow for the placement. Bring the line up to the
surface and attach to a flotation device. Using this line the anchor
can be pulled out by its head and will be easy to remove. The length of the trip
line is equal to the water depth at high tide plus 5 to 10 feet.
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Using Two Anchors:
Anchoring with two anchors is a
difficult maneuver and is performed to reduce the swing radius of the
sailboat or to increase the holding power in heavy weather. In setting
the anchors, one may maneuver the boat under power or
even place the second anchor with a dinghy. If one uses an engine,
care must be taken not to foul the prop with the first anchor's rode
while you are setting the second anchor. To prevent this from
happening, the first anchor's rode should always be close to the beam or
forward while you are setting the second anchor. To the right
is an animated gif showing a method of setting two bow anchors under
engine power which minimizes the chances of fouling the prop.
The tension on the anchor rodes is important especially when one is
swinging up to set the second anchor. Too much tension may cause
the first anchor to break loose, too little tension on the rode may cause
it to go astern and foul your prop.
Setting Two Anchor Animated GIF. Click On Picture To View
Animation.
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Mediterranean Mooring: This type of docking is commonly found in
Europe, South and Central America.. It maximizes the number of boats which can be docked to a
pier.
Each boat is docked with its stern to the pier with a rode and anchor
going forward, away from the pier. Boats are then docked next to
each other. During the maneuver the anchor is set and the
boat is backed into position. Prop-walk can create difficulty
staying on course. While backing towards the slip, one must be
careful not to put too much tension on the rode to straighten the boat
or the anchor may break loose.
Mediterranean Mooring Animated GIF.
Click On Picture To View Animation.
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